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Some restaurant facades are more visible than others. Take, for example, the ground floor of the Burns Building on the corner of 8th Avenue and Macleod Trail S.E. — anyone who spends much time downtown has likely driven by the restaurant space adjacent to Arts Commons countless times. It’s a familiar spot on a busy stretch of road, but the location has proven to be challenging over the years. The team behind Onyx, the newest restaurant to take on the space is hoping that it has found the right formula to fit the room.
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The storied heritage building’s most recent tenant, Anatolia, was much beloved (and still is, with a new standalone location on 52nd Street N.E. and stalls in Crossroads Market and both Calgary Farmers’ Market locations). But the homey Turkish restaurant felt a bit out of place in this particular room, which is grand in both scale and aesthetic, with room for well over 100 customers, sleek seating, a private dining room, and sky-high ceilings held up by massive white columns. It’s an opulent look that’s been in place since Chicago Chophouse occupied it almost a decade ago.
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The group overseeing Onyx wanted to create something to match the lavish atmosphere of the room while appealing to both Arts Common theatre-goers and lunch crowds from the nearby municipal building and other downtown offices. This meant creating a menu that is accessible both in terms of approachability and relative affordability, while still having enough razzle-dazzle to impress guests looking for a special night out.
“I saw the potential of the room and how beautiful it was. I tried to write a menu that reflected what I knew the room to be,” says chef Justin Lall, who has worked at several restaurants around the city, most recently with the Starbelly Group. “I took a lot of inspiration from what I’ve learned from the other restaurants I’ve worked with while offering different options to people with different budgets.”
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Knowing that he had to have something for kids and grandparents attending Theatre Calgary’s A Christmas Carol, well-heeled patrons of the Calgary Philharmonic, arty eccentrics taking in this month’s High Performance Rodeo and everyone in between, Lall came up with a selection of dishes that don’t necessarily reinvent the culinary wheel, but do manage to satisfy and surprise. His arancini ($19) is filled with pink beet risotto, which provides a pretty contrast to its accompanying smear of vibrant yellow truffle saffron aioli; the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich ($24) is dressed with ponzu slaw and a sambal aioli; and the gnocchi ($24) is served in a comforting gorgonzola cream sauce, but made interesting with butternut squash and toasted walnuts. There are steaks and burgers and pasta and all the things one would expect from a restaurant next door to a major theatre venue, but Lall uses his skills to give every item some extra oomph.
Also new for the space, Onyx has a full list of wine, cocktails, and other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Onyx Restaurant and Cafe is open daily from 11 a.m. onwards and has a coffee counter at the front of the restaurant for downtowners searching for a quick grab-and-go cup. The restaurant is located at #105 237 8th Ave. S.E. and can be reached at 403-300-0788 or through onyxrestaurantyyc.com.
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If you’re looking for a winter warmup, Mogouyan Hand-Pulled Noodles, a restaurant chain born in China over 40 years ago, opened its first Calgary location in mid-December at Pacific Place Mall. This immensely popular restaurant (there’s often a wait to get in at dinnertime, which gives you time to do some shopping at T&T Supermarket next door) follows the opening of several Toronto locations, as well as one in Edmonton, with a second Calgary outpost to open on 17th Avenue S.W. soon.
Mogouyan specializes in hand-pulled noodles, which customers can watch being prepared with some flourish in the restaurant’s open kitchen. The technique results in ultra-fresh noodles with the perfect amount of chewiness and bite. Mogouyan serves its noodles in hot soups, most of which include slices or chunks of beef, white radish, a robust and earthy spiced broth, scallions, and an adjustable hit of chili oil. Vegetarian and chicken versions are available, as are non-soup noodle dishes, a wide array of appetizers, refreshing cold tea drinks and much more. Mogouyan is located at 999 36th St. N.E. and is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. For more information, visit mogouyannoodles.com.
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Also, local favourite Amihan Grill and Bakeshop recently expanded to open a second location at 1011 1st Street S.W. The new shop offers the same delicious Filipino cuisine as the original restaurant in Sunridge, along with a new selection of cocktails and milkshakes. Both restaurants now offer boodle feast and crispy pata meals for more robust Filipino offerings. As always, don’t miss out on the bakery’s ube flan, one of the most beautifully creamy (and purple) desserts in the city.
Elizabeth Chorney-Booth can be reached at [email protected]. Follow her on Instagram at @elizabooth or sign up for her newsletter at hungrycalgary.substack.com.
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