Chorney-Booth: Charcut gets its groove back with a deliciously playful new location in University District

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Fifteen years ago, Calgary’s restaurant scene looked a lot different than it does today. It was hardly a “scene” at all and more of a collection of restaurants. Concepts like pop-ups, visiting chef collaboration and secret hamburger joints were relatively unheard of, and while we did have some excellent places to eat, event-based dining was far from the norm. Then in 2010, co-chefs John Jackson and Connie DeSousa opened Charcut in the Le Germain Hotel and our foodie culture took a bold step into the future.

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Of course, plenty of other chefs and restaurateurs stepped up to create the vibrant food community that we know today, but Charcut was certainly a catalyst, thanks to early events like its over-the-top “meat Sundays” and chef-driven potlucks, as well as Jackson and DeSousa’s unstoppable energy and infectious positivity. But as new restaurants have taken Charcut’s lead and run with it, it’s felt like Charcut itself lost a bit of its mojo for the last few years. The restaurant has never dipped in quality and Jackson and DeSousa have opened new spots like Charbar, Chix Eggshop, and Connie and John’s Pizza. However, over time, the public’s excitement has slowly drifted towards newer and shinier hot spots.

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From left, co-owner Connie DeSousa, general manager Ty Swihart, co-owner John Jackson and executive chef Jack Coetzee at Charcut University District. Jim Wells/Postmedia Photo by Jim Wells /Jim Wells/Postmedia

Well, Charcut has got its groove back in a big way. Jackson and DeSousa have regained a real sense of fire by going back to their original brand in opening a new Charcut in the increasingly action-packed University District on the ground floor of that neighbourhood’s new Alt Hotel.

Both Jackson and DeSousa acknowledge there’s been a bit of pause in the Charcut momentum over the last few years, though it’s by circumstance rather than choice. This new Charcut has been in the works for years, but the pandemic stalled construction of the hotel, forcing the new location to take longer than a typical restaurant waiting out pandemic-related delays. Now that it’s open, the co-chefs are back in full force, and while their vibe is still young and playful, guests are unlikely to feel much déja vu.

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The modern interior seating area at Charcut University District.  Jim Wells/Postmedia Photo by Jim Wells /Jim Wells/Postmedia

“We were the new kids on the block and also the underdogs back then,” Jackson says. “Over the time that’s passed, there’s been a certain shift and a maturity that comes with wanting to establish more of a destination restaurant.”

“It’s exciting for us because it’s been so long since we did it the first time,” DeSousa adds. “In some ways, we’re trying to recreate what we did back then, but level it up a bit.”

The new 100-seat restaurant is bright and modern, filled with cozy seating and light wood decor (the downtown location’s decor has been similarly updated). One corner boasts a showcase meat shop, where the restaurant’s signature cured meats (including its famous mortadella, which has graduated from being stuffed into a pig’s head into taking over the entire body) hang in red-framed windows, with a private dining room called The Butcherina – a venue for special events and assorted Charcut shenanigans – tucked behind.

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The showcase meat locker at the back of the room at Charcut University District. Jim Wells/Postmedia Jim Wells/Postmedia

The menu, which heavily overlaps that of the downtown location, is also an evolution of the original Charcut of 2010, moving away from a primarily meat-centric concept to incorporate a few lighter dishes. Charcuterie is still the heart of what Jackson and DeSousa do – cured meats are carved table-side on what Jackson claims to be the world’s first salumeria cart, a gentle nod to the table service at the Owl’s Nest, the legendary fine dining restaurant where Jackson and DeSousa both worked many years ago. While Jackson and DeSousa are still responsible for menu development, the cured meat program, and generally running the show, chef Jack Coetzee takes care of the day-to-day operations in the University District kitchen.

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Lightly smoked Alberta prime rib, horseradish aioli, and organic crispy potatoes are shown at Charcut University District. Photo by Dave and Quin Cheung Photo by Dave & Quin Cheung /cal

There is still a lot of meat, like the classic lightly smoked Alberta prime rib ($5.50/oz) and a dramatic bone-in bistecca ribeye ($145), but diners can also opt for a delicate whole grilled branzino ($46) or a selection of house-made pastas ($24-$36). There’s a section called “The Butcher’s Daughter” in homage to one of DeSousa’s daughters who happens to be vegetarian, packed with flavour-rich veg dishes like a shaved salted zucchini salad ($12) and charred asparagus with labneh ($17) as well as meatier Char-classics like the Tuscan truffle poutine ($16) and an updated tuna conserva ($19).

The main differentiator between downtown and the University District is a selection of artisanal pizzas ($24-$27), helping to make the restaurant more accessible to university students and other budget-conscious guests. There’s also a Connie and John’s take-out pizza outlet in the hotel lobby.

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Whipped cheese rotolo, stuffed pasta, garden peas, with lemon butter at Charcut University District. Photo by Dave and Quin Cheung Photo by Dave & Quin Cheung /cal

“Having that accessibility where we’re not just a special occasion restaurant has always been critical,” Jackson says. “That’s what makes the culture of the restaurant and creates that energy.”

The new Charcut location is at 4150 University Ave. N.W. in the lower level of the Alt Hotel. It’s open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and Tuesday to Sunday for dinner. For more information or reservations, visit charcut.com.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth can be reached at [email protected]. Follow her on Instagram at @elizabooth or sign up for her newsletter at hungrycalgary.substack.com.

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Salumi and Fromaggio are displayed at Charcut University District. Photo by Dave and Quin Cheung Photo by Dave & Quin Cheung /cal
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Chilled wine at the bar greets customers at Charcut University District. Jim Wells/Postmedia Photo by Jim Wells /Jim Wells/Postmedia

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